Exterior wood paint
— elastic rubber paint for fences, cladding & sheds
forest Exterior wood paint

Exterior wood paint
— elastic rubber paint for fences, cladding & sheds

Liquid rubber for wood is an elastic membrane that follows every swelling and shrinking cycle of the timber — unlike rigid varnishes, which crack and peel after 2–3 years. Suitable for fences, timber cladding, garden houses, sheds and post bases. Apply by brush in 2 coats, usually without primer.

summarize At a glance

Liquid rubber for wood is an elastic membrane that moves with every swelling and shrinking cycle of the timber — unlike rigid varnishes, which crack and peel after 2–3 years. Suitable for fences, timber cladding, garden buildings, sheds and post bases. Apply by brush in 2 coats, no primer required in standard cases.

01 / The problem

Why classic wood coatings fail

Wood is a living material — it swells when damp and shrinks when dry. Rigid stains and varnishes crack, water gets in and the timber rots.

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Swelling & shrinking

Timber can change in volume by up to 8% between damp and dry seasons. Traditional varnishes crack — and water finds a way in.

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Rot & warping

Water that has penetrated breaks down the wood fibres. Components warp, and load-bearing elements lose their strength.

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UV greying

Without UV protection, the surface of the timber turns grey within 1–2 years. Algae and fungi take hold, and the appearance suffers for the long term.

02 / Why RubberPaint

Why liquid rubber for wood

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Expands with the wood

Highly elastic and crack-bridging — follows every swelling and shrinking cycle without cracking. Quite unlike rigid varnishes.

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Waterproof seal

One continuous elastic membrane shields the timber from driving rain and prolonged damp — water never reaches the fibres.

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UV-stable, no greying

A stabilised acrylic-latex system stands up to UV. The wood keeps its colour rather than fading to grey.

palette

Every colour, uniform

9 RAL shades from black to yellow-brown. Covers old greying, previous stains or damage reliably in one go.

03 / Application

Step-by-step guide

Step 01 / 05

Prepare the substrate

Clean fibres for optimal adhesion.

Mechanically remove loose wood fibres, old glaze residue and dirt — if needed sand with grit 80–120, then sweep off dust thoroughly. Wood moisture must be below 20 % (manufacturer specification); higher moisture risks bubbling.

For heavily greyed wood or algae/fungal infestation, pre-treat with a wood de-greyer or algae/fungus remover, rinse thoroughly and let dry for 48 h.

Pro tip: Never apply over pressure-treated wood under 6 months old — impregnation agents must outgas first. Test: a water drop must absorb in 30 seconds, otherwise too early.

Prepare the substrate
Step 02 / 05

Treat algae & fungi

Important if pre-damaged.

On strongly absorbent or splintery wood apply a deep primer (wood impregnation) — improves adhesion and protects against fungal growth through the wood. Let dry for 12 h before further work.

On sound old paint (glaze, lacquer) sanding with grit 80–120 is enough — primer can be skipped.

Pro tip: Always prime cut edges and end-grain twice — wood absorbs most here and weathering starts here. Double priming extends service life by years.

Treat algae & fungi
Step 03 / 05

First coat — primer

Deep penetration for hold.

Apply diluted with up to 5 % water (up to 10 % with airless sprayer) — that way the first coat penetrates the wood fibres and forms the bonding base. Work with brush or lambswool roller in the grain direction. Consumption 150–250 g/m² (wood is absorbent).

Particularly careful at cut edges and joints — these areas are weather-prone.

Pro tip: On vertical wooden boards (fence, facade) work top to bottom and spread out drips immediately — otherwise streaks form that can't be fixed later.

First coat — primer
Step 04 / 05

Drying

Patience pays off.

Cure for at least 4 hours at 23 °C / 50 % RH. Wait longer at higher humidity or lower temperatures (up to 8 h). The first coat must be completely dry through, otherwise the second won't hold.

Protect wood from rain during drying — for outdoor application stretch a tarpaulin or postpone work to dry weather.

Pro tip: On strongly absorbent or dark wood the first coat often looks very matt — no concern, the second coat creates the final finish.

Drying
Step 05 / 05

Second coat — sealer

The final armour.

Apply undiluted, in the grain direction. Consumption 100–200 g/m². Rain-resistant after 6 h (manufacturer specification), carefully loadable after 24 h, fully load-bearing and cured after 28 days.

On heavily stressed areas (wooden fence facing the street, wooden facade weather side) a third coat is recommended — refurbishment then in 5–7 years instead of 3–4.

Pro tip: Touch up cut edges and post feet annually with a thin coat — these are the first weak points and so double the service life of the whole coating.

Second coat — sealer
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Pro tip

On heavily greyed or algae-infested wood, pre-treat with a wood de-greyer or algae remover and let dry thoroughly. Never apply on pressure-treated wood under 6 months of age — impregnation agents must outgas first.

04 / Specifications

Technical data

Consumption per coat 150–250 g/m² (wood is absorbent)
Recommended coats 2 (3 for heavily-stressed surfaces)
Drying time 2 h dust-dry · 4 h recoatable
Rain resistance after 6 h (manufacturer specification)
Full cure 28 days
Application temperature +10 °C to +30 °C
Service temperature −20 °C to +50 °C
Elasticity highly elastic, crack-bridging
Wood moisture at application < 20 % (manufacturer specification)
Binder Acrylic latex (solvent-free)
Tool cleaning Water, immediately after application
Material calculator

How much material do I need?

Enter your area and desired number of coats — we recommend the optimum tub combination.

m²

Standard: 2 coats. 3 for heavily exposed surfaces.

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Consumption: 200 g/m² per coat. +10 % buffer for offcuts and uneven surfaces. For larger projects (> 80 m²) contact us for individual advice.

Recommendation

6,6 kg needed

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Exterior wood paint — elastic rubber paint for fences, cladding & sheds

Exterior wood paint has to do one thing above all: move with the timber. Fences, cladding, sheds, carports and pergolas swell when wet and shrink when dry — rigid stains and varnishes crack after two or three seasons. Elastic rubber paint based on liquid rubber follows every movement, doesn't flake and protects the wood for 8–12 years against rain, UV and greying.

Why conventional exterior wood paint fails

  • Wood moves: spruce, pine and larch change their volume by up to 8 % over the year — a rigid film develops hairline cracks, water gets in, the paint lifts
  • UV radiation breaks down the binders in alkyd paints — after 2–4 years the surface turns chalky and grey
  • Moisture from inside: dense varnish films trap residual moisture, the wood rots under the paint
  • Every repaint starts with sanding — the work repeats every 3 years

Elastic wood paint based on liquid rubber

Liquid rubber (also called rubber paint, rubberised paint or flexible coating) forms a highly elastic, waterproof membrane on wood. It stretches with the swelling timber and contracts again as it shrinks — without cracking and without losing adhesion. At the same time the film stays breathable (V2 per EN 1062-1): residual moisture can escape outward and the wood stays healthy. The paint is water-based, solvent-free, low-odour and available in 14 RAL colours direct from stock.

Suitable timber surfaces

  • Garden fences and privacy screens — the classic, 8–12 years without repainting
  • Timber cladding and boarding — weather side with a third coat
  • Sheds, summerhouses, carports, pergolas — walls, doors, load-bearing beams
  • Play equipment and sandpit surrounds — physiologically safe after 28 days of curing
  • Pressure-treated timber — at the earliest 4–6 weeks after treatment

Not suitable: walk-on decking boards (they become slippery — use wood oil there), timber in permanent ground contact and windows with high visual demands.

Step by step

  1. Clean. Remove algae, moss, dust and loose paint — pressure washer at max. 120 bar or a scrubbing brush. Treat heavily greyed wood with a wood reviver, rinse thoroughly, leave to dry for 48 hours.
  2. Sand. Key loose fibres and old stains with 80–120 grit, brush off the dust. Wood moisture below 18 % — check with a moisture meter if in doubt.
  3. First coat. Thinned with up to 5 % water, applied with a brush or lambswool roller along the grain. Paint cut ends, knots and post bases twice — that's where the wood absorbs most. Coverage approx. 150–200 g/m².
  4. Dry. At least 4 hours at 23 °C / 50 % humidity, longer in cool weather.
  5. Second coat. Undiluted, crosswise to the first. Coverage 100–150 g/m². Rain-resistant after 6 hours, fully cured after 28 days. A third coat on the weather side and on post bases.
Pro tip. Never paint in blazing midday sun — the surface skins over too fast and the second coat bonds poorly. Start on the shaded side in the morning and follow the sun around the fence.

How much do you need?

For two coats on rough-sawn timber: 0.3–0.4 kg/m². A fence 30 m long and 1.8 m high, painted on both sides (108 m²), needs around 32 kg — six 6 kg tubs. For a shed with 40 m² of exterior wall, two 6 kg tubs are enough.

Which colour?

Brown (RAL 8017) hides greying best, Graphite (RAL 7024) and Black (RAL 9005) for a modern look, Green (RAL 6005) for sheds that blend into the garden. Test very light shades on tannin-rich timber (oak, larch) on a small patch first.

👉 See all 14 RAL colours

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Painting onto damp wood — blistering after the first summer
  • One thick coat instead of two thin ones — the underside stays wet and the paint lifts in sheets
  • Painting freshly treated timber straight away — preservatives prevent adhesion
  • Forgetting cut ends and post bases — that's where weathering starts

FAQ

Does the wood paint hold on old stain?

Yes, if the stain is firmly bonded: sand, dust off, paint straight on. Remove loose stain mechanically first.

Can you still see the wood grain?

No — rubber paint is opaque. If you want to see the grain, stick with stain and accept shorter renovation intervals.

How long does the coating last?

8–12 years on normally exposed surfaces. After that a single refresh coat without sanding is enough.

Is the paint suitable for children's play equipment?

Yes, after full curing (28 days). Water-based, solvent-free, VOC below 30 g/l.


Ready to start? Choose your colour and tub size.

Go to the shop → · Application overview · FAQ


Related terms: Our product is sold in DIY stores and the trade under several names — liquid rubber, liquid rubber paint, liquid membrane, rubber paint, rubberised paint, flexible coating, elastic exterior paint or polymer coating. They all mean the same product: a waterproof, highly elastic coating based on acrylic latex.

08 / FAQ

FAQ — wood coating

Can I paint over old, weathered timber?
Yes, but treat the weathered timber with a wood brightener first, rinse thoroughly and let it dry for at least 48 hours. Adhesion will be weaker on untreated weathered substrates.
Do I need to remove old stains or varnishes?
Loose, flaking glazes yes — remove with scraper or sandpaper. Firmly adhered glazes need only sanding for adhesion. With paints (closed film) you should sand with grit 80 and remove all dust.
What about fungal growth or algae?
Mandatory: pre-treat with algae/fungus remover (e.g. Algex, NeoPur) before coating. If you coat without treatment, the infestation continues under the coating and causes bubbles or delamination.
Does it work on pressure-treated timber?
Yes, but only after at least 6 months of outgassing of the impregnation agent. Freshly impregnated wood has a water-repellent film that prevents adhesion. Test: a water drop must absorb in 30 s, otherwise too early.
How often do I need to re-coat?
With correct application, 2 coats last several years. Maintenance: annual visual inspection of the weather side, refresh coat if micro-cracks or UV matting appear. Cut edges and post feet are the first weak points.

Got a technical question?

Our technical team advises on complex applications, substrate analysis and film-thickness calculation.