Pool coating —
decorative, elastic, long-lasting
pool Pool coating

Pool coating
with liquid rubber — waterproof & chlorine-resistant

Elastic protective and decorative coating for concrete swimming pools — UV-stable, with smooth easy-to-clean surface. Suitable as an additional protective layer over existing primary waterproofing. Direct on prepared concrete, no specialist pool contractor needed.

summarize At a glance

Liquid rubber pool coating seals concrete, steel and polyester pools seamlessly, and stands up to chlorine. The elastic membrane bridges settlement cracks and copes with freeze-thaw cycles. Apply in 2–3 coats by brush or airless spray; the pool can be filled with water after 28 days of curing.

01 / The problem

Why pool coatings fail

A pool is one of the toughest applications around — permanent water load, chemicals, UV. The wrong material is unusable in 2–3 seasons. Refurbishment costs a fortune once a specialist firm has to come in.

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Hydrostatic pressure

Water pushes with weight — at 2 m depth already 200 g/cm². Classic pool paints come off at the deep line first, then the problem spreads upward. The coating peels off in strips.

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Chlorine attacks classic enamels

Free chlorine (0.5–3 mg/l standard for swimming pools) is a strong oxidiser. Standard enamels are attacked, discolour, become brittle. After 1–2 seasons cracks and discolouration are visible.

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Algae infestation & green pool

Micro-fine cracks or a rough surface give algae a foothold. Once established, they are hard to remove — the pool turns green, water must be fully changed. A smooth, sealed surface is essential.

02 / Why RubberPaint

Why liquid rubber for pools

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Suitable with standard pool care

Suitable with standard pool care (free chlorine < 1.5 mg/l, pH 6.8–8.2). Also in salt-electrolysis pools with well-maintained water chemistry. With aggressive chemicals or permanent over-chlorination the coating can be attacked.

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Protective layer over primary waterproofing

Elastic acrylic coating as an additional protective and decorative layer over an existing, properly executed primary pool waterproofing. Follows thermal movements of the substrate without cracking.

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Smooth surface

Algae have nothing to cling to. Clean with a pool brush and a standard cleaner — no rough surface for dirt to settle into.

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UV-stable, no embrittlement

Stays flexible and elastic in direct summer sun. Unlike traditional pool paints, which go brittle under UV and need replacing after 3 years.

03 / Application

Step-by-step guide

Step 01 / 05

Empty and clean the pool

A dry substrate is essential.

Fully drain the pool, let dry — at least 7 days in sunny weather, longer if cloudy. Use a pressure washer to remove algae, limescale and old coating residue. Mechanically loosen any peeling areas, close cracks > 1 mm with concrete repair mortar and let cure for 7 days.

For old, defective coating we recommend removing completely down to solid concrete — half measures ruin the result.

Pro tip: Have the residual moisture of the pool concrete measured with the carbide method — moisture below 4 % is essential, otherwise layers come off later under water pressure.

Empty and clean the pool
Step 02 / 05

Prime with deep-penetrating primer

Stabilise absorbent pool concrete.

Pool concrete is highly absorbent after cleaning. Apply deep primer, let dry for 24 h. This reduces first-coat consumption and significantly improves adhesion. For pools with old, defective coating, strip down to concrete first, then prime.

Apply deep primer thinly — a thick coat forms glossy spots that later fail under water pressure.

Pro tip: On very porous or cracked pool concrete: first apply a repair-mortar slurry as an equaliser, then deep primer — you get a perfectly prepared surface.

Prime with deep-penetrating primer
Step 03 / 05

First coat — penetration

Diluted with up to 5 % water (up to 10 % with airless sprayer).

Diluted with up to 5 % water (up to 10 % with airless sprayer). Brush and lambswool roller. Consumption 200–250 g/m² (pool concrete is highly absorbent). Particularly careful on floor-to-wall transitions, at inlet jets and skimmer connections — these detail points demand gapless coverage.

Pool coating must be perfect — gaps or pinholes become leaks under water pressure.

Pro tip: At floor-to-wall transitions embed polyester fleece (60 g/m²) into the wet coat — prevents cracks from settling movement of the pool shell over the years.

First coat — penetration
Step 04 / 05

Second coat — sealer

Undiluted after 24 h of drying.

Undiluted, cross to the first coat. Consumption 150–200 g/m². Let dry until fully sealed — for pool application at least 8 h, ideally overnight. Wait longer in cooler weather or high humidity.

The coat must no longer be tacky to finger pressure and leave no impressions.

Pro tip: Cover the pool during work — prevents pollen, dust and insects landing in the wet coat, which would remain permanently visible under water.

Second coat — sealer
Step 05 / 05

Third coat — deep line + jets

Reinforcement for high-load zones.

Third coat at the deep line (lower 60 cm), transitions to jets, skimmer and steps. Reinforces the most heavily loaded zone, prevents delamination at key points. Consumption 100–150 g/m². Allow full cure — minimum 14 days before water filling, 28 days for full load capacity.

Before filling, sweep the pool thoroughly — dust and insects would remain permanently visible under water.

Pro tip: Fill the pool slowly the first time (over several hours) — hydrostatic pressure builds gradually and the coating can adjust, instead of being loaded all at once.

Third coat — deep line + jets
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Pro tip

Pool coating requires three coats instead of the usual two. Apply the third coat especially in the deep line and at inlet/outlet jets. Fill with water no earlier than 14 days after full curing, ideally after 28 days. IMPORTANT: RubberPaint is intended as an additional protective and decorative coating — a suitable primary pool waterproofing must already be professionally installed.

04 / Specifications

Technical data

Total consumption (3 coats) 0.5–0.6 kg/m²
Recommended coats 3 (deep line + jets)
Drying time 2 h dust-dry · 8 h recoatable
Curing before water filling 14–28 days
Full cure 28 days
Use case Decorative and protective layer over existing primary waterproofing
Recommended water quality free chlorine < 1.5 mg/l, pH 6.8–8.2 (standard pool care)
Binder note Acrylic-latex coating — not suitable for aggressive chemicals
Elasticity highly elastic (Class A0/C0 to EN 1062-1)
Service temperature −20 °C to +50 °C
Binder Acrylic latex (solvent-free)
Material calculator

How much material do I need?

Enter your area and desired number of coats — we recommend the optimum tub combination.

Standard: 2 coats. 3 for heavily exposed surfaces.

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Consumption: 170 g/m² per coat. +10 % buffer for offcuts and uneven surfaces. For larger projects (> 80 m²) contact us for individual advice.

Recommendation

6,6 kg needed

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08 / FAQ

FAQ — pool coating

Can I paint over an old pool coating?
Only if the old coating is 100 % sound — which is rarely the case with old pools. Recommendation: remove the old coating completely (sandblasting or hammer drill with chisel), down to solid concrete. Then deep primer, then RubberPaint in 3 coats. Half-measures ruin the result and cost double.
When can I refill the pool with water?
Earliest after 14 days of curing, ideal after 28 days. Filling earlier means the coating doesn't reach its full strength and can fail under water pressure. Patience pays off — waiting an extra season is far cheaper than a full refurbishment.
How long does the coating last with heavy use?
With correct application and normal pool care: many seasons. Key: keep pH in the standard pool range (6.8–8.2), chlorine below 1.5 mg/l (standard care recommendation), tackle algae early. Annual visual inspection at water change, spot-coat repair areas — drastically extends service life.
Does it work with saltwater chlorinator pools?
Yes, RubberPaint is also suitable for salt-electrolysis pools. Salt itself isn't an issue — chlorine spikes from electrolysis can briefly run higher than standard chlorination. Key: regular chlorine measurement; on spikes above 5 mg/l, increase water volume or reduce electrolysis output.
Can I coat a hot tub or spa area?
Whirlpool yes, with one limitation: temperatures above +40 °C continuously can stress the coating. With regular whirlpool operation (38–40 °C) RubberPaint holds reliably. For spas with higher temperatures (e.g. sauna plunge pools with temperature swings): clarify the material recommendation with our support team beforehand.

Got a technical question?

Our technical team advises on complex applications, substrate analysis and film-thickness calculation.