Facade painting —
elastic, breathable & durable
domain Facade painting

Facade painting
with liquid rubber — breathable & crack-bridging

Elastomeric facade paint against cracks, weathering and algae infestation. Direct on render, concrete or masonry — without primer in most cases. Follows thermal building movement and lets wall moisture escape.

summarize At a glance

Liquid rubber for facades is an elastic, water-based coating that bridges hairline cracks while remaining breathable (V2 to EN 1062-1). Apply by brush, roller or airless spray in 2 coats (100–200 g/m² each). Suitable for render, concrete, brick and plinths. Resistant to UV, frost and driving rain.

01 / The problem

Why classic facade paint fails

A facade works constantly — it heats up, cools down, gets wet, dries out. Rigid paints crack, peel, fade. The result: saturated walls, mould from the inside, and an appearance that gets worse year by year.

broken_image

Cracks from temperature swings

Facades expand in summer and contract in winter. Traditional masonry paints crack — and those hairline cracks become entry points for water and frost.

biotech

Algae, mould, soiling

Damp weather-exposed sides become a breeding ground for algae and fungi. Black spots, green film — bad for looks and building fabric, a health concern if growth reaches indoor spaces.

wb_sunny

Fading & chalking

UV radiation breaks down pigments. After 3–5 years, traditional paints look dull, fade to grey or form a chalky surface that rubs off on contact.

02 / Why RubberPaint

Why liquid rubber for facades

gesture

Bridges cracks up to 1.5 mm

Highly elastic and crack-bridging — moves with every thermal expansion of the facade. Fine hairline cracks disappear beneath the elastic membrane.

air

Vapour-permeable (V2 EN 1062-1)

Lets moisture in the wall escape outwards, but blocks rain from getting in. No moisture trapped inside the wall.

wb_sunny

UV-stable, no greying

Stabilised pigments keep their colour even after 10 years of full sun. No chalking, no fading.

hub

Works on virtually any substrate

Render, concrete, masonry, brick, older paint — paint straight over them. In most cases you can skip the primer entirely.

03 / Application

Step-by-step guide

Step 01 / 05

Prepare the substrate

A clean base for years of adhesion.

Clean the facade thoroughly — a pressure washer (min. 100 bar) removes algae, dirt, loose paint and chalking. Mechanically remove loose, flaking old paint (scraper, wire brush). Pre-fill cracks > 1 mm with repair mortar and let cure for 7 days.

For algae or fungal infestation, pre-treat with an algae/fungus remover, let act for 24 h, rinse thoroughly and let dry for 48 h.

Pro tip: The Sellotape test checks old-paint adhesion — stick a strip on and pull off sharply. If paint stays attached, the substrate is sound; if only flakes come off, full removal is needed.

Prepare the substrate
Step 02 / 05

Prime (if needed)

Lock down strongly absorbent substrates.

On strongly absorbent substrate (fresh render, lime sandstone, old lime render) or heavily chalking old paints: apply a hydrophobising deep primer. Reduces first-coat consumption by up to 30 % and significantly improves adhesion. Let dry for 12 h before further work.

On sound, closed paint, primer can be skipped — proceed directly to Step 3.

Pro tip: Apply deep primer thinly — a thick coat forms a glossy film that worsens main-coat adhesion.

Prime (if needed)
Step 03 / 05

First coat — penetration

Dilute with up to 5 % water (up to 10 % with airless sprayer).

Apply with lambswool roller (short nap, 10 mm), brush or airless sprayer (15–18 MPa, nozzle 0.021–0.026″). Dilute with up to 5 % water (sprayer up to 10 %). Diluted, the first coat penetrates the substrate and forms the bonding base. Consumption 100–200 g/m².

Particularly careful at connections to windows, doors and plinths — these detail points demand gapless coverage.

Pro tip: On tall facades use a cherry picker or scaffolding — never ladders above 4 m; the risk is too high and work quality suffers from a wobbly position.

First coat — penetration
Step 04 / 05

Wait the drying time

At least 4 hours at 23 °C.

At 23 °C and 50 % RH dry for at least 4 hours. Wait longer in cooler weather or high humidity (up to 8 h). Test: the coat must no longer be tacky to finger pressure and leave no impressions.

Protect the facade from direct sun (streaking) and rain (softening) during drying — stretch a tarpaulin if uncertain.

Pro tip: Follow the sun — start on the west side in the morning, work to the east side in the afternoon. This avoids direct sun during drying.

Wait the drying time
Step 05 / 05

Second coat — coverage

Apply undiluted, cross to the first coat.

Apply the second coat cross to the first for even coverage. Consumption again 100–200 g/m². Undiluted for full layer thickness. Rain-resistant after 6 h (manufacturer specification), fully load-bearing after 28 days.

On the weather side (south/west) a third coat is recommended — UV and rain load there is 2–3× higher than on protected sides and otherwise shortens service life.

Pro tip: Judge the final colour only after full curing (28 days) — fresh coating looks slightly milky, especially on the shaded side, but clears up completely.

Second coat — coverage
lightbulb
Pro tip

On the weather side (south/west) apply an additional third coat — UV and rain load is 2–3× higher there than on protected sides. On heavily weathered or chalky old coatings apply a deep primer first.

04 / Specifications

Technical data

Consumption per coat 100–200 g/m² (0.1–0.2 kg/m²)
Recommended coats 2 (3 for weather-exposed side)
Drying time 2 h dust-dry · 4 h recoatable
Rain resistance after 24 h (manufacturer specification)
Full cure 28 days
Application temperature +10 °C to +30 °C
Service temperature −20 °C to +50 °C
Elasticity highly elastic (Class A0/C0 to EN 1062-1)
Water-vapour permeability V2 to EN 1062-1 (vapour-permeable)
Binder Acrylic latex (solvent-free)
Tool cleaning Water, immediately after application
Material calculator

How much material do I need?

Enter your area and desired number of coats — we recommend the optimum tub combination.

Standard: 2 coats. 3 for heavily exposed surfaces.

info

Consumption: 150 g/m² per coat. +10 % buffer for offcuts and uneven surfaces. For larger projects (> 80 m²) contact us for individual advice.

Recommendation

6,6 kg needed

Calculating…

Total quantity
Total price

Free shipping from £170 — review your basket after adding.

08 / FAQ

FAQ — facade painting

Can I paint over an existing coating?
Yes, provided the old paint is sound. Test with a Sellotape strip — if paint sticks when pulled off, the substrate is stable. Stabilise heavily chalking paints (hand turns white on contact) with a deep primer or remove mechanically.
Which substrates need a primer?
Fresh render (< 28 days), lime sandstone and strongly absorbent concrete need a deep primer. Existing sound paints and normal exterior render usually need no primer — RubberPaint bonds directly.
What should I do about algae or mould?
Mandatory: pre-treat with algae/fungus remover (e.g. Algex, NeoPur) before painting, let act for at least 24 h, rinse thoroughly and dry for 48 h. Otherwise the infestation continues under the coating — bubbles and delamination follow.
At what temperature can I paint?
Optimal +15 to +25 °C. At least +10 °C air and substrate temperature across the full 28 days of curing. Avoid direct midday sun — the paint dries too quickly and streaks form. Morning hours on the weather side, afternoon on the protected side.
How does RubberPaint differ from a normal masonry paint?
Classic dispersion paint is thin, rigid and chalky. RubberPaint is an elastic membrane — highly elastic coating (Class A0/C0) — bridging cracks, taking up movement, breathable. Service life and weather resistance significantly higher than standard products.

Got a technical question?

Our technical team advises on complex applications, substrate analysis and film-thickness calculation.