Cracks from temperature swings
Facades expand in summer and contract in winter. Traditional masonry paints crack — and those hairline cracks become entry points for water and frost.
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Elastomeric facade paint against cracks, weathering and algae infestation. Direct on render, concrete or masonry — without primer in most cases. Follows thermal building movement and lets wall moisture escape.
Liquid rubber for facades is an elastic, water-based coating that bridges hairline cracks while remaining breathable (V2 to EN 1062-1). Apply by brush, roller or airless spray in 2 coats (100–200 g/m² each). Suitable for render, concrete, brick and plinths. Resistant to UV, frost and driving rain.
A facade works constantly — it heats up, cools down, gets wet, dries out. Rigid paints crack, peel, fade. The result: saturated walls, mould from the inside, and an appearance that gets worse year by year.
Facades expand in summer and contract in winter. Traditional masonry paints crack — and those hairline cracks become entry points for water and frost.
Damp weather-exposed sides become a breeding ground for algae and fungi. Black spots, green film — bad for looks and building fabric, a health concern if growth reaches indoor spaces.
UV radiation breaks down pigments. After 3–5 years, traditional paints look dull, fade to grey or form a chalky surface that rubs off on contact.
Highly elastic and crack-bridging — moves with every thermal expansion of the facade. Fine hairline cracks disappear beneath the elastic membrane.
Lets moisture in the wall escape outwards, but blocks rain from getting in. No moisture trapped inside the wall.
Stabilised pigments keep their colour even after 10 years of full sun. No chalking, no fading.
Render, concrete, masonry, brick, older paint — paint straight over them. In most cases you can skip the primer entirely.
A clean base for years of adhesion.
Clean the facade thoroughly — a pressure washer (min. 100 bar) removes algae, dirt, loose paint and chalking. Mechanically remove loose, flaking old paint (scraper, wire brush). Pre-fill cracks > 1 mm with repair mortar and let cure for 7 days.
For algae or fungal infestation, pre-treat with an algae/fungus remover, let act for 24 h, rinse thoroughly and let dry for 48 h.
Pro tip: The Sellotape test checks old-paint adhesion — stick a strip on and pull off sharply. If paint stays attached, the substrate is sound; if only flakes come off, full removal is needed.

Lock down strongly absorbent substrates.
On strongly absorbent substrate (fresh render, lime sandstone, old lime render) or heavily chalking old paints: apply a hydrophobising deep primer. Reduces first-coat consumption by up to 30 % and significantly improves adhesion. Let dry for 12 h before further work.
On sound, closed paint, primer can be skipped — proceed directly to Step 3.
Pro tip: Apply deep primer thinly — a thick coat forms a glossy film that worsens main-coat adhesion.

Dilute with up to 5 % water (up to 10 % with airless sprayer).
Apply with lambswool roller (short nap, 10 mm), brush or airless sprayer (15–18 MPa, nozzle 0.021–0.026″). Dilute with up to 5 % water (sprayer up to 10 %). Diluted, the first coat penetrates the substrate and forms the bonding base. Consumption 100–200 g/m².
Particularly careful at connections to windows, doors and plinths — these detail points demand gapless coverage.
Pro tip: On tall facades use a cherry picker or scaffolding — never ladders above 4 m; the risk is too high and work quality suffers from a wobbly position.

At least 4 hours at 23 °C.
At 23 °C and 50 % RH dry for at least 4 hours. Wait longer in cooler weather or high humidity (up to 8 h). Test: the coat must no longer be tacky to finger pressure and leave no impressions.
Protect the facade from direct sun (streaking) and rain (softening) during drying — stretch a tarpaulin if uncertain.
Pro tip: Follow the sun — start on the west side in the morning, work to the east side in the afternoon. This avoids direct sun during drying.

Apply undiluted, cross to the first coat.
Apply the second coat cross to the first for even coverage. Consumption again 100–200 g/m². Undiluted for full layer thickness. Rain-resistant after 6 h (manufacturer specification), fully load-bearing after 28 days.
On the weather side (south/west) a third coat is recommended — UV and rain load there is 2–3× higher than on protected sides and otherwise shortens service life.
Pro tip: Judge the final colour only after full curing (28 days) — fresh coating looks slightly milky, especially on the shaded side, but clears up completely.

On the weather side (south/west) apply an additional third coat — UV and rain load is 2–3× higher there than on protected sides. On heavily weathered or chalky old coatings apply a deep primer first.
Enter your area and desired number of coats — we recommend the optimum tub combination.
Standard: 2 coats. 3 for heavily exposed surfaces.
Consumption: 150 g/m² per coat. +10 % buffer for offcuts and uneven surfaces. For larger projects (> 80 m²) contact us for individual advice.
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White and light greys dominate modern facades — beige and brown tones suit traditional buildings. Anthracite works well as an accent on plinths or window reveals.
Our technical team advises on complex applications, substrate analysis and film-thickness calculation.