Metal & rust protection
with liquid rubber — direct-to-rust

Use wire brush, grinding disc or sandblasting to remove loose rust and old, flaking coatings — down to a sound substrate. Work welds and screw connections particularly thoroughly, as rust nests sit here. Firmly adhered surface rust stays — it'll be converted in the next step.

For heavily rusted spots, have welds or individual sheets replaced — coating alone won't save eaten-through steel.

Pro tip: Sandblasting gives the best surface (St 2.5 to EN ISO 8501-1) — for large areas, rental equipment from a DIY store is much cheaper than professional treatment.

On firmly adhered surface rust: apply a commercial rust converter (phosphoric-acid based) evenly. Let act for 24 h, then wipe with a damp cloth. Converts iron oxide into a stable, neutral compound that serves as a bonding base for the coating.

Smooth transitions between rust-free and treated areas with sandpaper.

Pro tip: Only apply rust converter on fully dry rust — on damp rust the phosphoric acid doesn't react properly and the result is unstable.

Clean the entire surface with acetone or brake cleaner — removes invisible oils, grease and residue from the rust converter. Wipe with lint-free cloths, change often. Let dry for 30 minutes — don't touch with bare hands afterwards.

On large areas wear gloves and re-degrease after every break — hand sweat is just as problematic as lubricant.

Pro tip: On non-ferrous metals (aluminium, galvanised steel) degreasing isn't enough — these need roughening with grit 80–120 sandpaper or a special primer for non-ferrous metals.

Apply the first coat undiluted and generously. With brush or short-pile roller. Consumption 150–200 g/m². Particularly generous on edges, welds and screw connections — these are the most vulnerable, where corrosion starts. Gapless coverage, no pinholes (small visible holes).

On vertical surfaces work top to bottom and spread out drips immediately.

Pro tip: Light the wet coat from a flat angle with a torch — pinholes become immediately visible and can still be touched up before the layer dries.

After 4 h apply the second coat cross to the first. Consumption again 150–200 g/m². In salty environments (coast, road-salt area) or industrial exhaust, a third coat is recommended. Rain-resistant after 6 h (manufacturer specification), fully load-bearing after 28 days.

In the splash zone (ground contact, lower 30 cm) also a third coat — these areas are salt-stressed.

Pro tip: Annual visual inspection of the weather side — touch up small damage immediately, otherwise rust spreads further under the coat.